Succulent dishes both easy on the eye and the palate

Despite being the last week of the summer holidays and Putney Bridge being shut, Enoteca was nicely buzzing when we went to try the new autumnal game menu.



The cod carpaccio served with samphire and giardiniera salsa (£10.50)was was an attractively presented, colourful dish. The cod had a beautiful soft texture which was completed by the samphire, some crisp lettuce and a salsa. The salsa was tangy made of pickled carrots and other vegetables.

In addition to the menu the specials of the day all included the porcini mushrooms and as a fan of all thinks funghi I had to have the mushroom potato cake. Sadly (for me) it included cheese (to which I am allergic) but that didn't stop the chef creating instead a lovely starter of sauteed mushrooms with home-made crisps. Sounds rather simple? Believe me it was lovely and I am sure the potato cake would also have been good.

Roast rump of Rhug Estate organic lamb with Sicilian aubergine caponatina, thyme jus was deliciously tender. Cooked pink, it melted in the mouth. The lamb sat on a bed of aubergine caponatina, an aubergine stew and this added a sweetness to the rich jus (£22.50). (Apologies the picture does not do it justice.)

With guidance from Guiseppe Turi ( a walking wine encyclopedia it seems!) we chose the Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico £42.50. A deep ruby red, with smooth intense flavours of berries.

The breast of guinea fowl, sausage leg, friggitelli peppers and garlic mash, a recipe from the Campania region (£20.50) was a fine dish of complementary flavours and textures. The guinea fowl was tender and full of flavour, and was complemented by the coarser spicy sausage. The creamy garlic mash absorbed the jus and the peppers provided colour and piquancy.

The menus brought images of autumn, which is around the corner and based on the drizzle falling as I type, it is already with us. Warm rich dishes, fragrant and satisfying.

Unable to do justice to a dessert my husband order a vin santo with cantuccini 'to share'. To my mind it is a satisfying dessert in itself! The hard biscotti become sweetly moist after a few seconds dipped in the sweet late-harvest wine. Just don't make the social faux-pas of dipping it in your coffee!

PS As we go to print I have recieved an update from Enoteca Turi that their new autumn menu has arrived..... time to go back then!

Sandi Bloomfield

September 6, 2014